By Luke Badman
So, you’re thinking about bringing a puppy into your life.
It’s no small decision!
It’s also one that thousands more Aussies have made since the beginning of the pandemic in March 2020.
Demand for puppies is through the roof, which means people like you probably have a very long list of questions about how to best prepare your home for the new puppy’s arrival.
I’ve prepared this comprehensive dog training advice to take all the guesswork out of readying yourself for your new family member.
These are the items which I’ve used and tested myself in raising my own puppy, Shadow the Kelpie X Border Collie.
Dozens more items did not make the cut. You can take this list to the bank and know that this is an A-to-Z of what’s needed for success.
Bonus - read through to the very end for my thoughts on "puppy training" from 8-16 weeks old, and why I didn't rush to teach my puppy obedience commands until several weeks after getting him.
Now, onto the shopping list!
A Note Before We Begin
You might be thinking, “31 ITEMS! THAT’S A LOT OF SHOPPING, LUKE!”
On one hand, you’re right.
But shopping for a puppy isn’t a 5 minute affair. To be fair, most items on this list are under $10-20, with the exception of a few major purchases that will last the dog’s entire life.
Personally I HATE going into the shops - it’s a waste of my spare time. Amazon Prime has made things much easier in that regard. I pay about $7 a month for unlimited overnight shipping to my doorstep. They also use their own drivers which means no delays through the Australia Post network.
On that note, I’ve included links to Amazon purchase pages for most items on this list. Full disclosure, I earn a small commission if you choose to buy them on Amazon (at no extra cost to you). Amazon is usually miles cheaper than the shops anyway.
Feel free to go to the local pet store or wherever to get your items!
More questions about training your dog? Contact me here.
Sleeping crate
Crates are an invaluable tool for teaching your puppy the rules of the house. They have several key benefits:
Set the crate up in your living room and prepare to sleep on the sofa for the first 2-3 nights. After this, you can return to your own bed and start teaching the puppy to sleep by itself.
I use the “You & Me” brand from Petbarn. Around $200 for a large. You can get $50 crates elsewhere but I wouldn’t recommend them.
Exercise pen
You can zip-tie an exercise pen to the outside of your puppy’s crate, to allow it a space to toilet (on pee pads - see below) and have a water bowl available. This still keeps it contained within a defined area and not able to roam the house unsupervised.
Again, I use the Petbarn brand “You & Me”.
Old towels
Lining the crate with old towels provides a soft and comfortable sleeping surface. Be careful however as some puppies will chew these. You may need to periodically remove them to discourage this.
Old t-shirts
These are useful when you collect the puppy from the breeders. If possible, rub them on the mother dog’s coat and then place them inside your puppy’s crate. This will help it settle into the new house with less distress about being separated from its mother.
Nappy “pee” pads
Some people will commit to waking every 2 hours to take their puppy outside to the toilet. I am not one of those people!
During the night, I give the puppy access to the exercise pen so that he can toilet freely on the pee pads without the need for me to constantly wake up.
As a rule of thumb, a puppy can hold its bladder, in hours, the same number as its age in months. So a 2 month old puppy needs to toilet every 2 hours or so.
Potty plant
For apartment dwellers, these are a lifesaver. Visit www.pottyplant.com.au to see what I’m talking about.
In my case, we have our own backyard with grass but my puppy is a grass digger. The potty plant comes with a cage that prevents him from chewing and digging up the grass. Amazing stuff.
Disinfectant spray
Glen-20 or the home brand equivalent will do the job. You will become very familiar with your puppy’s poop and urine, believe me.
These sprays help to neutralise smells and disinfect any surfaces that may get a splash of wee or poop on them.
Baby wipes
Great for wiping dirty puppy feet before coming inside the house, or even wiping the dog’s rear end after it’s done a poop.
Very young puppies can have quite soft poop for the first few weeks (while their gut biome develops) so you’ll be glad to have these wipes at hand.
Puppy-safe pet shampoo
A no-brainer. Spend a little extra and get a natural formula without harsh chemicals. Look for one specifically blended for puppy coats.
Compostable waste bags
Continuing the poop theme, you will go through these like nobody’s business! I keep one roll of bags in each of our cars, one by the back door, etc. You get the idea.
Name tag
Attach this to your dog’s harness. Petbarn has these amazing little machines that will engrave the dog’s name for you. Very cool.
Rogz “H” Harness
Without going into too much detail, the majority of dog harnesses are very easy for your puppy to “shrug” off almost like removing a t-shirt. This is obviously extremely dangerous!
The Rogz H harness (shaped like an H) prevents this with its clever design.
Sizing note: I used a SMALL on Shadow until he was around 6kg - now he uses a MEDIUM and eventually a LARGE.
Rogz seat belt attachment
These are used to clip your dog’s harness to the seatbelt of your car. In New South Wales you must restrain a dog when inside a vehicle.
Other states may have different laws but I would highly recommend these to prevent a wriggly puppy from running amok in your car.
Flat nylon collar with a 120cm nylon leash attached
https://amzn.to/3uaT3j0 (collar)
https://amzn.to/3do3Ikf (leash)
I don’t recommend walking a dog on a collar before 5-6 months as I don’t teach leash pressure before this age.
This collar is for use inside the home. It is used to ensure you always have a way of controlling the dog - removing it from furniture or other undesirable behaviours.
We often think of collars/leashes as only for outside or on walks. At the most basic level these are to let us control the dog, regardless of where we are. It might seem counterintuitive but I encourage you to always have a “house” collar and leash on the dog.
For safety you MUST cut the leash handle off to prevent snagging the dog on furniture.
NEVER leave a collar on the dog when it’s in the crate.
5m Flexi leash
Prior to getting a puppy I was a big hater of Flexi leads. In general, I still would never use them for a dog over 5-6 months old, as they provide very little control.
For a young puppy however, this is perfect as I like to encourage the dog to explore the world during walks.
If you have the puppy on a 120cm training leash you will constantly be stopping during walks. Flexi leashes are a great tool for the first few months.
10m/30ft long leash
For use during free time at the park. In NSW it is illegal to have a dog unleashed in any area except for signposted leash-free dog parks.
A 10m nylon leash is the perfect solution, giving the dog the freedom to roam freely.
Please note that these require a little practice and skill to operate as you’re constantly feeding them through your hands. A local dog trainer can show you how to do this properly.
Treat pouch
Dog trainers have a saying - never issue any command unless you are in a position to enforce it. That is, you typically either need treats or a leash to control the puppy.
Treat pouches give you easy access to the dog’s training food and most clip to your belt or have their own strap.
Pro trainer’s tip: A bum bag does just as well as a treat pouch in most situations.
The advantage of these is they’re more low key, and can be slung across your shoulders in situations where a belt-mounted pouch wouldn’t work - in the car etc
Flip-proof water bowl x2 (inside and outside the house)
These bowls are shaped in a way that prevents the dog from flipping them over and spilling the water. Their sides usually slope outwards from top to bottom, which is the shape that prevents flipping.
Collapsible water bowl
These are a must-have for car trips or anywhere your puppy won’t have reliable access to a water bowl.
Zenify slow-feeder food bowl
If you want a really well-trained dog I would encourage you to feed all of its food from the treat pouch during training sessions. However that discussion is beyond the scope of this free guide.
For the lazy days when I bowl-feed my dog, I use a Zenify slow feeder bowl which has little plastic mounds that force the puppy to pick out individual pieces more slowly.
Puppy food
Do not change your puppy’s food for the first week after bringing it home. The stress of moving house and being away from its mother and litter mates is enough. It is likely to already have a runny bottom from this stress alone.
During week 2, you can spend 5-7 days transitioning the puppy to the food of your choice. I prefer a grain-free recipe and personally use Ivory Coat as they’re a great Australian brand.
Week 2 would look like this:
Day 1: 20% new, 80% old food
Day 2: 40% new, 60% old food
Day 3: 60% new, 40% old food
Day 4: 80% new, 20% old food
Day 5: 100% new food
Many will advise puppies should be fed 4 times a day until 6 months, and then twice daily after that. Personally I do 3-5 short training sessions throughout the day.
Contact me if you want to talk more about the benefits of using your dog’s food to train (existential food training).
Tamper-proof plastic storage tub
(30L tub should hold up to 15kg of kibble)
I buy my kibble in 15kg bags which are not the easiest to handle or move around. The plastic zip lock on the top often isn’t very strong.
30L plastic tubs with clip-locking lids are great and you can store the food in the garage without fear of cockroaches or other vermin getting inside.
Kong classic toy
Whoever invented the Kong must be sleeping on a pile of $100 notes! These are hands down the most amazing dog toy ever made. Fill one with kibble or a smear of peanut butter and keep the puppy amused. The mind-body stimulation these provide is invaluable.
Kong wobbler toy
These are a larger version of the original Kong. You fill them with kibble and the dog must “wobble” the toy over repeatedly, spilling small pieces of kibble out. Again, a great source of enrichment for curious young puppies.
Kong squeaker bone toy
A durable, long-lasting toy with the added enrichment of making squeaking sounds, which will keep the dog entertained.
Dog-safe balls
Regular tennis balls aren’t ideal as the green stringy fabric can come off and get into their gut. Dog-safe balls are made specifically for dogs and are super durable.
Professional tug toy
Forget the rubbish tug toys you will find at most major pet shops. The ropey ones they sell are no good and will fall apart after minimal time.
Go online to a professional K9 website used by dog trainers, and get a tug toy made from french linen - with proper leather handles.
I can recommend www.k9pro.com.au or www.einzweck.com
Deer antler chew
These are the only things I found that could withstand the abuse handed out by my super-chewer Kelpie X Border Collie puppy.
They are very safe and should not splinter into small pieces. They will endure weeks of chewing from your puppy. I buy the WAG brand of antler chews online.
Bonus: Pro Dog Trainer’s Secret Items!
Menthol medicine rub
This is my go-to item for stopping puppies from chewing on furniture. One generous wipe with this will keep your puppy’s sharp teeth well away from the furniture.
I caught my puppy chewing on a plumbing pipe outside, and he took one sniff of the menthol rub and ran for the hills. Would not go near it.
Shout out to my man Panos (co-host of our podcast) for this tip!
Wireless doorbell ($10 from Bunnings)
This is slightly more advanced, and something I learned from The Canine Paradigm podcast. We ring the doorbell every time the dog is to be released from the crate.
The idea is that the puppy learns that no matter how much it cries or carries on, the doorbell is the only consistent predictor of being released from the crate.
This requires an understanding of Pavlovian and Operant Conditioning but the basics are that we teach the dog there is absolutely no hope in crying or barking to get out of the crate. This is a very important life lesson that carries over to the rest of the dog’s life. It learns that everything is on the owner’s terms.
Small LED torch
Perfect for late night and early morning trips to the backyard for your puppy to do his business.
Use the torch to know whether or not he has actually toileted when it’s too dark outside to see properly.
Lastly: Revealing The Truth About “Puppy Training” From 8-16 Weeks Of Age
(Why Obedience Commands Aren't The #1 Priority)
Congratulations, you’ve done the essential shopping and household preparations. You’re now ready to bring the puppy home.
That was the easy part!
You’ve got a furry little baby in your care, recently separated from its mother and litter mates. The dog may be nervous or scared. It is in a brand new environment full of strange sights and sounds.
The first few weeks with a new puppy are affectionately known as “hell weeks''. If this is your first time raising a puppy, you will quickly learn why.
People often ask, “When is the right time to start training my dog?” The truth is, “training” starts the minute you collect the dog from the breeder, and it never stops.
Our dogs are watching and learning from us 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Which means that really, dog “training” is also 24/7.
What Is Dog “Training” Anyway?
I think that what people are referring to when they ask about “training” is what 99% of people assume this word to mean.
That is, the basic obedience commands of sit, lie down, come when called (recall), and a bed or “place” command. We could also include a loose-leash walk to round out the most common obedience training curriculums.
The unpopular truth is, these commands can wait until later.
I didn’t teach any “obedience” to Shadow (my Kelpie X Border Collie) until he was almost 11 weeks old. At this time I only started teaching him a Bed/Place command, because it is the most useful inside the house. I wasn’t as concerned with “sit” or “lie down” just yet.
Which means I had him for almost a month before we started training these commands.
Here’s the unpopular truth about the early stages of your puppy's training:
Eating Hotdogs Is Not Learning
Any 5-year old with a fistful of chopped up hotdogs can lure a puppy around by its nose at the local “puppy school” and make it look like the dog is “learning” obedience commands.
Pumping your puppy full of treats while you lure him around your neighbourhood is not training.
He is not truly taking in any of the stimulus that you are trying to expose him to (cars, noises, other animals, people etc).
Realistically the more important factor at that young age is that we do two main things:
- Establish a common language between ourselves and the dog
- Actually and properly socialise the dog in as many different situations as humanly possible.
These should be realistic daily situations such as:
- Experiencing traffic and heavy machinery
- Other animals, both large and small
- Various surfaces - sand, water, drainage grates, etc
- Shops such as Bunnings and your local café
“Marker Training”: The Common Language Between Humans And Dogs
So, the first thing I did with Shadow was spend weeks establishing supercharged “markers” with which I could communicate exactly what I wanted from him in any given situation.
These markers allow you to clearly show your dog exactly which behaviours are acceptable or unacceptable.
You don’t speak dog and they don’t speak English, but marker training is the common language between humans and dogs. Without supercharged markers, you have no way of giving the dog clarity in any given situation.
A full how-to of marker training is beyond the scope of this article. Contact me if you’d like more information about how to do this.
But the basics are that we teach the dog that “yes” means a reward is coming. This way we can shape desirable behaviours. Other markers may include things like “leave it” for when we are stopping the dog from undesirable behaviour.
The Critical Period: Socialise, Socialise, Socialise
The “Critical Period” of puppies is a concept introduced by John Paul Scott and John L. Fuller in their 1965 book, Genetics and the Social Behaviour of the Dog. This became one of the most important and influential dog behaviour books ever published, laying the scientific foundations for generations of dog trainers to come.
What they discovered was that dogs have a clearly defined neonatal period, a transition period and a critical (or sensitive) period, and what happens to them during these periods shapes what kinds of dogs they grow up to be.
This overall critical period comprises the first 16-17 weeks of a dog's life, during which time it must be exposed to a wide range of positive social experiences. You could think of it as "puppy bingo" or a checklist of various social situations.
This must include being introduced to other dogs.
Building The Dog You Want
So, I spent the first 3 weeks with Shadow taking him absolutely everywhere that I could, placing a massive emphasis on socialisation with humans, safe dogs, and a wide variety of environments.
Think of places like Bunnings, outdoor cafés, the park (always on concrete before 16 weeks), etc. We also placed an emphasis on meeting my friends’ dogs who are stable and not a threat to him.
In terms of “training”, I always had a bum bag full of his kibble and used this to mark and reward moments where he responded to stimulus in a way that I liked.
I also used it to counter-condition any negative reactions he had to stimulus. In this way we can shape the dog’s emotional response towards any given situation.
THIS is what your puppy’s earliest training should look like, and it’s not what you will be paying for at 99% of puppy “schools” or even when you hire most 1-on-1 trainers to come to your house. Simply because this is much less sexy than seeing puppies do “monkey tricks” like sit, lie down, etc.
This is the extremely boring, vanilla, and unsexy truth of puppy training for 8-16 week old dogs. Forget about the luring-with-hotdogs and focus on showing your puppy the world, along with building the attitudes that will carry it into a confident and happy adulthood.
I would encourage you to read this section several times to truly understand the implications of successfully navigating your puppy’s critical period.
What’s Next?
Raising a puppy is no easy task. The critical period is called that because it is CRITICAL to the 10-15 years that your dog will likely live for.
Getting this period right is truly make or break to the overall success of your dog’s life.
What exactly does it mean to “get it right”? You no doubt have a lot of questions about raising your new puppy.
Ask yourself:
- Do I know how to establish a series of verbal markers with my dog? This is the language with which we communicate for the rest of the dog’s life.
- Do I understand the fundamental sciences (Pavlovian and Operant Conditioning) that are used to teach behaviours to dogs? These are the foundations of the dog “learning how to learn”.
- Do I understand the importance of good household management and what this involves? How to set up the puppy for success in daily home life?
- Do I know all the requirements of properly socialising the puppy?
If you would like to speak further with me about your dog, contact me and I’d be happy to help.
To you and your dog’s success!